Triathlon Training
An Essay on Indian Nationalism
Another Interesting Quote from Another Interesting Musician
In Sweden, Canada is 'Kanada' and nobody is circumcised
Interesting Quotes from Interesting Musicians
At the Weekend
Monotony was starting to set in, so we opened a bottle of wine and sat on the balcony in winter jackets and scarves and we drank. We spoke about the future mostly, and joked about what we must have looked like to the neighbors across the way, had they taken two seconds to look out the window. Our balcony doesn't have the best of views, overlooking a gravel-covered road that doesn't allow cars, and a two-story brick apartment building (identical to ours and the dozen or so others around the complex) provides the dismal backdrop. But if you stared into the sliver of black sky that poked out from under the overhanging roof, you could see the stars through the haze of our frozen breaths, and that's why we sat there.
Choosing red wine seemed like a good idea at first (I always prefer red wine in winter, while in summer it's best to drink wheat beer). As the time passed the wine became too cool, and I wished it had been white instead. We hid the opened bottle inside the closed balcony door to preserve what warmth we could. I've been quietly looking forward to the warmer climes of the Caribbean, and she has been troubling over a decision to switch schools. I spent a large part of my wine recalling old memories of my college classes and just what the Tourism program was like back home. With no resolution, but both feeling alive, we drained the last of our glasses and returned to the warmth of our apartment, and I wished I was outside again.
The next morning I made breakfast for myself and a cup of coffee for the wallpaper man. The house was disassembled, the dining table, couch, chairs, plants and small refrigerator all piled on top of one another in the center of the room ensconced in protective plastic. The man was painting the ceiling a bright white, and he wasn't sloppy. The old wallpaper had been torn down the day before, and the walls were bare, save for vertical white stripes of leftover glue. After attempting a brief conversation in misunderstood Swedish with the wallpaper man, I bounded out the door, my bag stuffed full of what I'd need to spend a day on the streets of Uppsala. I had my laptop, my book (Sterling Hayden's Wanderer), my spiral notebook, my Speedo and goggles (but no towel – I'd regret this), a thermos full of milk, a Ziploc full of muesli, leftover hummus sharing space in an old Tupperware container with some broken pieces of knackebrot, and two containers of whole wheat pasta. I pedaled into town on my newly acquired girls bike with the green frame and blue seat that was six inches too low for me.
My days have been spent exercising, writing, reading, and trying to do interesting things so that I have something interesting to write about. I sat down in a small café, Café Linne, my favorite spot in Uppsala to have a cup of coffee, but since I stopped drinking coffee this week I had a cup of tea. The cups they serve tea in are enormous, and I'd pee about six times that day, and it became very difficult to focus on a cohesive essay when I constantly had the urge to relieve myself. I got through editing an essay I planned on sending to a magazine. Then I focused on a few blog entries, drank some more tea, peed a few more times, and headed to the library where I devoured every word of a recent Spinsheet magazine, "researching."
I was in a wine mood that evening. I returned smelling like Chlorine because I didn't shower with soap after swimming in the pool. 2000 solid meters of training interspersed with tips on my form as she swam circles around me, and I became frustrated. I'm fitter than most, so why am I so freaking slow in the pool? The apartment resembled something like normalcy, save for the pile of crap that remained in the center of the living room. The plastic was gone, and the walls now glowed a soft lime green, which was supposed to be striped and grey but the wallpaper man couldn't follow directions. I organized the place, even going as far as re-installing the psychedelic curtains and watering the plants. Our blue couch does not match the green walls.
Since I was supposed to meet her for a drink after work, I opened a bottle of wine. It was cheap and Italian and tasted cheap but didn't taste Italian. I drank the whole bottle and then got on my bike again, feeling like a superhero, and rode into town faster than I ever had before, my scarf trailing heroically in the breeze behind me. Toward the castle I flew, and I descended upon the town, where she waited for me on the bridge. We turned a corner and crossed under an ancient iron gate into an enclosed yard filled with large oak trees. The pub was down the cement steps of an old basement, and the entrance was two steel doors set at a 45-degree angle, opened towards the sky, the kind that hid the entrance to your best friends basement where you'd go to hide and play army with nerf crossbows. They asked me for my ID, to which I obliged, and they did not ask for a cover fee. We emerged into a small room with brick walls that gently curved inwards and formed the arched ceiling, low enough that I had to duck in places. Small alcoves with protective iron grates on either side of the room housed candles that provided the light and the ambience. Nirvana's Unplugged in New York played loud enough to hear, but soft enough to enjoy, and my 5th glass of wine tasted remarkable.
She worked again the following morning, but not too early, and we enjoyed an enormous breakfast together. My mind was submerged in fog, but I was not hung-over, and I set out before her, bag packed again, but this time for fun and not work. The bus to Stockholm was to leave at 10:40am, and I only left the apartment at about 10:33, nervously walk-running to the stop where I met her friend Karin, pronounced Car-in. We made small talk about Sweden and traveling and tea, and once we hit the open road I dove into my book and didn't emerge until well within the city limits. My astounding sense of direction was of no use when we got off the bus, because I did not know the destination. I was at the mercy of Karin, and resigned to the role of follower as we rode the escalator downhill.
She finally showed up about six hours later as I was making dinner for us all. The first glass of wine evaporated the fog in my brain, and the second only made me sleepy. The third heightened my senses, and the fourth put my in a decidedly cheerful mood. I ate far more than I should have on Saturday evening, including an entire steak, a large fillet of salmon, two football-sized baked potatoes drowning in olive oil, grilled Portobello mushrooms, zucchini and a salad. I topped it all off with a chocolate-filled banana that spent 10 minutes melting in the oven and about one minute melting in my mouth.
We rode the train back to Uppsala because I love riding the train in Europe, a method of travel that somehow went the way of the covered wagon in America. I began the journey reading my book, and writing my own story in my head. My mind speeds along with words and sentences, yet I struggle to put them on paper. Every waking hour I spend rehashing my life and trying to figure out how to make it sound interesting when the stories flood the pages in my head. In a moment of clarity I immediately put down my book and spent the duration of the train trip staring out the window and watching the scenery go by. I experienced the present and at that moment detached my brain from it's longing of the past and restrained it from speeding into the future.
I decided then to start doing things worth writing about. I thought to myself, if I want to write a book about my life someday, now is the time to fill the pages with experience. The writing will be easy then.
The scenery drifted by, and my right arm supported my head, while she stroked the forearm of my left with her soft fingers. She has hands that are difficult to describe, but are the first thing I noticed about her long ago. Hands were the first things I noticed about every girl I've ever laid a curious eye on, and if they were not right, the girl was immediately dismissed. Her hands were right. When we met, they were athletic but unmistakably feminine, and they were perfectly proportioned, the knuckles not too big but not too small either, and when she nonchalantly rested a hand on a knee, they assumed an aesthetically pleasing form that I usually associate with boats and cars and mountains. The only other person with hands as perfect as hers that I've ever met was my high school gym teacher, but she was a foot shorter than me.
Most of the way we saw farmland and horse racing tracks and green forests with grey rocks in them and no snow and it could have been Berks County but no, it was Sweden. The train stopped and we got off and we walked the few miles back towards our apartment. I rode the one bike we had between us while she sat on the back, her hands securely around my waist. We waited until we were on the bike path though, so the police wouldn't catch us like they did two weeks ago when I pedaled, drunk, into town to see a band. Then we got home, she went to work, and I commenced reading, then writing some. I tried to fix myself a hot drink with rum and fresh squeezed orange juice, because alcohol always makes me write better and we were out of wine, but it tasted terrible so I poured it in the sink. Darkness had settled in long ago, and the hour approached 10:00pm. I read what I had written, and I was pleasantly surprised by the words like I always am after completing an essay, and then I wanted to go outside in the dark and run, because I wanted to have something more to write about later, but I couldn't.
Work in Progress
"We need to get some more beer."
"What?"
"More beer. We need more beer."
"Right. I'm on it."
Joji sprang to his feet and resumed walking as if he'd been standing all along. The rest of us remained seated, cross-legged on the ground, in what was supposed to be a circle, but by now resembled something more like an amoeba.
I was tired from the long afternoon. And more than a little drunk. But it was the kind of 'satisfied' tired that one only gets from an afternoon so inherently enjoyable that you can sink into yourself in the evening and simply relish the feeling of being tired, when the world is right with itself and nothing matters except the dirt upon which you sit and the people with whom you converse.
Joji soon returned, though 'soon' is a relative word. For all I know it could have been 3 minutes or 3 days; in fact, it didn't matter. Time didn't matter to the rest of them either. 'Now' was all that existed, all that was ever to exist in my current state of mind, as well as in theirs.
"Down the hatch!"
I gulp a glass of beer, which is small for a glass but rather large for a gulp. The men to my left and to my right are nameless, but they are cheerful, and so my soul is at ease. I pass the glass to the man on my right, who sits cross-legged, though comfortably, in the grass beneath a coconut tree. I am also sitting cross-legged, though rather uncomfortably. This fact is apparent to my companions, and they laugh as I awkwardly contort myself so as to keep the blood flowing to my feet. The gulping continues.
The glass has nearly circumnavigated the circle, and now resides in the sinewy hand of my leftern neighbor. He tells me his name is Joji, and initially I think he says "George." I even record this in my journal. One of his companions, whom I later learn is his cousin, dutifully pops open the aluminum cap of another Fiji Bitter, and the revelry can resume.
Three hours pass in the waking world; we change locations. The scene is similar now, simultaneously more civilized and more barbaric. We sit, for real this time, on stools surrounding a round wooden table. The bartender dutifully uncaps another round of Fiji Bitter, and the revelry can resume.
There is no gulping this time, and I take advantage. My friends have done this before; I'm merely a novice. I cannot keep up. The room is a foggy memory, yet I experience it in the present. Somehow I find the safety of a comfortable bed.
…
The roosters are at it again. It's pitch dark outside, but for some reason they feel the need to discuss the matter of morning, and rather raucously. Lying in my bed, the ceiling looks like it belongs in a Swiss ski chalet, not a hostel in the South Pacific. I continue to have similar thoughts as I wait for the sun to break the horizon.
It's only 6 o'clock, and there is not much to do at that hour. Though my room could cater for 4-5 people, I remain alone. In the silence of dawn, my thoughts are friendly and deafening.
It's chilly but clammy at that hour of the morning, and the sky is a hundred different shades of grey, but it's not raining. The atmosphere is playing tricks on me…I feel cool enough to wear my jacket, yet immediately after I begin walking, I'm drenched with sweat and the humidity is stifling. I think about taking my jacket back to the room, and then I keep walking.
...
The atmosphere is close, it's damp. I know my destination, and I don't know what waits for me. I nearly turn around, anxious with thoughts of what lies ahead, afraid to face the young girl whom I'd met the day before, before I transcended with my friends and Fiji Bitter. She was extraordinarily friendly, and her name was Teresa. I remember this fact immediately, and do not have to consult my journal. I stumbled upon her and her friends one day prior while ambling up the beach that overlooks Beqa Lagoon. Beqa Island sits on the horizon.
I shouldn't be afraid. She welcomed me as a friend. We played volleyball and watched kids doing front flips into the ocean.Triathlon Training and Bicycle Racing
Since I?ve accepted the reality that I?m not going to be working until I return home, I?ve needed to occupy myself with something productive. There are about 14 weeks until the defense of my 20-24 Age Group title at the Black Bear Half Ironman triathlon up in the Poconos. I?m going to make the most of them, and try to get in really good shape in time for the event. Last year I finished in something like 5:45:00. This year I want to break 5 hours.
I found an excellent 20-week training plan for a half event online, catered to novice triathletes like myself who have a good base of fitness, and want to improve. I?ve decided to cut out the first 5 weeks, since they are mostly base training anyway, and I?m already exceeding the workout times and intensities of those few weeks. It?s been really nice to have a plan to stick to, knowing everyday what to expect from a workout, from time and mileage down to perceived exertion. The workouts average about 90 minutes a day, and usually include two or more disciplines. For example, today I?ll swim about 2000 metres and then bike for 45 minutes on the trainer.
Yesterday I ran an out-and-back course, running a negative split, meaning the ?back? portion of the run should be faster than the ?out.? Feeling fantastic after running an easy pace of RPE 2-3 (on a scale of 0-10) on the way out, I blasted home in 24 minutes and had to have been running faster than I ever have before, knocking a full seven minutes off of my ?out? time of 36 minutes. It was one of the best workouts I?ve ever had, and I felt fresh and springy afterwards.
Tomorrow I?m off, which is good because Mia and I are going to Stockholm to our third roommate Johanna?s house to have a good old-fashioned American BBQ, with yours truly as the chef. A bunch of their friends are coming over, so I?ll be surrounded by about 8 Swedish girls?tough life, right?
On another note, the Tour of California began on Sunday, with the deciding stage coming today, a 15-mile time trial that should determine the overall winner. This is cycling?s biggest race of the early season, and by far the biggest race on American turf. Only in it?s third iteration, it?s already attracting the best teams and the best riders from around the world, and is quickly becoming a marquee event on the pro calendar, only a notch beneath the Grand Tours of Europe. Last year American Levi Leipheimer, who was once a minion for Lance, won the overall and is looking to defend his title again this year, grabbing the yellow jersey after a demanding Stage 3 in the mountains.
Stage races almost always come down to the best climbers and the best time-trialists. On flat roads, nearly everyone is equal, and though the sprinters ultimately get the stage win, they never put any time into the peloton because everyone arrives at the finish more or less at the same time, and whoever can jump off the front in the last 200 metres wins the race. Climbing stages, however, are a different animal. The lighest, fittest riders can make it up and over the mountains much faster than the sprinters, and can effectively put several minutes into the weaker climbers. On the biggest mountain climb of Stage 3, Levi and an elite group of the best climbers hammered up the slopes and put a huge gap into the rest of the peloton. Levi and another Dutch rider shot off the front alone, crossing the finish line a full 4 minute ahead of the main pack.
So after stage three, only 5 riders remain within striking distance of the jersey. They also happen to be some of the best time-trialists in the world, including reigning two-time world champ Fabian Cancellara, who sits only 30-odd seconds back of Levi. After a flat Stage 4 in which the main peloton should cross the line at more or less the same time, not affecting the overall standings, it will come down to who can beat the clock in Stage 5. Levi is one of the best in the world against the clock, winning the final Time Trial is last year?s Tour de France. But Cancellara is fitter this year, and should be a major threat. In fact, he?s not known as a climber at all, but managed to stay in the front group in Stage 3, stunning Levi and the front-runners, giving himself a shot to win the overall with a big ride today.
Which brings me to another issue. Cycling is an interesting sport in the way the races are handled. There is the Pro Tour, which is sort of like the PGA Tour of cycling, and includes many of the major races in Europe, and a handful elsewhere around the world. All of the biggest and best teams are ?Pro Tour? teams, much like a football team is a member of the NFL. So the Pro Tour races therefore get the best teams and the best riders and are the biggest races.
However, the UCI, which governs the Pro Tour, has been at war with the organizers of the Grand Tours like the Tour de France, Giro di Italia, and Vuelta y Espana, over matters of anti-doping. Subsequently, they?ve pulled these races, the biggest in all of cycling, out of the Pro Tour calendar, and are now running them as independent races, and may invite whichever teams they choose, Pro Tour or not. In a world without doping, this would be ok?they?d invite the best teams with the best riders anyway. But that?s not the case, and this year?s Tour de France, among other big races, will not see Alberto Contador defend his title because ASO, organizers of the Tour, declined to invite his team, Astana.
Astana is a Kazakh team, sponsored by Kazakh companies and the government. In 2006 and 2007, they were mired in doping problems and were kicked out of the Tour both years because of that. Last year, Lance?s former Discovery Channel Team won the Tour with Contador for an 8th time under director Johan Bruyneel. The team also included Levi, who placed third, and was undoubtedly the most powerful team in the peloton (again), even without Lance. Discovery did not renew their sponsorship of the team last year and they folded. Suddenly, Johan, Contador, Leipheimer and the rest of the Tour de France-winning team was out of work.
Enter Astana. Looking to shake things up and create a clean team, they hired Bruyneel as their new director. He subsequently fired everyone else on the staff, including most of the riders, and hired basically everyone from his former Discovery Team, including Contador, Levi and Andreas Kloden, another Tour favorite. So now Astana is under new management, with a new roster, new bike sponsorship (Trek, of course), pretty much new everything. They have 3 legitimate Tour contenders in Kloden, Levi and Contador, and without question the best supporting cast of any Pro Tour team. Problem is, the Pro Tour no longer regulates the Tour, so Astana got snubbed.
ASO, the organizing body of the Tour, reasoned that with Astana?s past doping history and disruption of the Tour in recent years, they didn?t deserve to come back. Fair enough. But the only thing that remains from the old team is the name of the sponsor. They have even implemented external doping controls for the entire team, spending over $1 million this season alone to make sure their riders are clean.
Furthermore, ASO did not snub other teams mired in scandal, including Rabobank who fired Michael Rasmussen for suspected doping during the last week of the Tour, who was poised to win the whole thing, wearing the yellow jersey when he got the boot. ASO is under enormous criticism from the American cycling media to let Astana in the Tour, and Levi even launched a campaign called ?Let Levi Ride? with a website, t-shirts and stickers.
Interestingly, in France, the decision to boot Astana has received praise, simultaneously giving the Americans another reason to hate France. They see it as a good thing, whereas the rest of the world sees it as an enormous debacle, something that could ruin the Tour. Riders from other teams are already threatening to boycott the Tour altogether if Astana cannot ride. The peloton wants to ride against the best, and there is no sense in winning if the favorites are sitting on the sidelines. It?d be like the Master?s not letting Tiger play?who wants to win if they don?t have a chance to beat the best in the world?
Similarly, the fans are already boycotting the Tour. Nobody, myself included, wants to watch a bunch of second-rate riders duke it out on the slopes of the Alps and Pyrenees without the likes of Levi, Contador and Astana leading the charge. It will be an enormous shame if this ends up killing the Tour. I don?t think it will, and I still have a feeling that ASO will reverse their decision as the pressure mounts, especially if Levi can win in California, proving that his Astana squad is the best in the business. That said, if the decision does kill the tour, it might end up turning the Tour of California or another yet-to-happen Grand Tour in the US into the marquee cycling event of the future. It?s going to be interesting to see how it all plays out.
Eventually, I will become this man...
This is my favorite travel quote. I love the part about reading books and drinking a bottle of wine everyday. I already do that.
Interestingly, I received the book Marco Polo’s Travels from a college professor at Penn State. I did exceptionally well on an exam in my tourism class, and the professor, a Portuguese fellow, wrote a nice note on the inside cover wishing me luck in my own travels. I still haven’t gotten through the book. I will one of these days.
Time is running short in Sweden. After being abroad for nearly three months now, it’s suddenly nearly time to return. I’m already regretting the things I didn’t do, while enjoying the memories of the things I have done. But one month still remains, and much can be experienced in that short time. I’m finally out of my rut, finally out doing and experiencing things. It’s so easy to be lazy and disgruntled about your situation, but when you finally step outside and make a real attempt to experience the world, it’s amazing how quickly your attitude can change. Fuck that mood changing like the wind business - time is what you make of it, and I have the power to control my mood, I just have to do it.
I’m writing this from a café in Uppsala, one I’ve never been to before. It’s called ‘Café Cappuccino.’ Not a very original name, but atmospheric nonetheless. I chose it because there are large picture windows framing the people outside as they walk and bike by on the street. Lots of light shines through these windows, and it’s a beautiful day outside today, much too warm for February in the far north.
Mia’s dad brought me a new bike the other day. Not new, but new to me. My green machine got two flat tires in a span of about 2 hours, and the wheels are rusty and shot, so in the dumpster it went. Now I have a nice little green girl’s bike, with a lovely swooping frame, big brown saddle, and silver fenders. It’s about 4 sizes too small for me, and my knees nearly rub the handlebars when I pedal. I look ridiculous on the thing. It’s much better than walking.
Renewed Vigor
Existence
A man approaches me, wearing a royal blue coat with a white stripe running lengthwise across his back, from one wrist to the other. He strides confidently, his brown leather shoes guiding him with utmost precision over the smooth tiles of the underground. I glance away, not wanting to appear suspicious. I notice he is carrying a black leather briefcase, for what purpose I am not sure. I tell my subconscious to remember this moment.
The underground station was painted, depressingly colorful. A rainbow of yellow, green, blue and finally purple stretched the length of the tube, above the tracks. I remained in the exact same position I'd been in when the blue-coated man crossed in front of me. My feet hadn't moved an inch, and my body remained motionless, save for the reflex of breathing. I was disoriented this far underground, my usually reliable inner compass bewildered, threatened by the artificial light and the unnatural wind. Usually I'm very adept at finding my way around, especially at finding my way home, wherever that may be, but not here. My instincts were confused, and I was forced to rely on unintelligible maps and diagrams, of which I understood little.
The waitress speaks English. I'm the only person in the café, but she doesn't seem to mind. Well, I am now. A few moments ago a group of friendly looking middle agers had just gotten up, evidently satisfied with their beers, their coffees, their meals, whatever it was they were indulging in. I hadn't noticed. I'm having difficulty with the candle on the table. Set in interestingly molded, colorful clay (though probably purchased from a department store), the single flame on a rather large table continues to lick the tips of my fingers, reminding me of its presence. Luckily it's only my fingers. I should have probably blown out that flame straight away, but I rather enjoyed its ambience.
Outside the earth continues it's everlasting march around the sun, shrugging aside the last glow of daylight, ushering in the darkness. Lights are turned on across the city, landmarks illuminated so the tourists can take their photos and bask in their personal glory of another destination checked off the list, another photo framed with history. I sit, subconsciously aware of my surroundings, questioning my motives for being in this place at this exact moment in time. A glass sits to my right, deep red and nearly opaque, my motivation to create. I take the last sip, the English-speaking waitress appears right on time, and I motion for another.
'Smokin' cigarettes and watchin' Captain Kangaroo.'
Later this evening I will leave the café. It will close at 10pm, and I will be forced to move on. I know this, because I've been here before. This café has become my haven, my place of solitude in a city slowly destroying itself at the hand of the almighty dollar. I'm a cancer and a victim at the same time. The café would not exist if not for people like me, yet I enjoy it's atmosphere to escape these people. When the bill comes, I will pay the exorbitantly high price offered only to tourists like myself, but I will feel satisfied that I've found a place off-the-beaten path, devoid of the tourists I try to escape. I will pass along the 'secret' knowledge of this café to others like me, letting them in on my little secret. Unknowingly yet completely aware, I will contribute to the destruction of a city, a culture, an idea.
The traveler seeks adventure, seeks the unknown, seeks the authentic. The traveler is inherently mistrusting of every other traveler, wanting to keep secrets to himself, refusing to share the most coveted places, the most exciting experiences. The traveler seeks only for himself, selfishly satisfied with his own discoveries. He returns to the real world and regales his friends with enchanting tales of strange lands and stranger people. He is not one, but a culmination of all travelers, yet believing that his experiences are unique, that he has sought and found authenticity which others shall never experience. He holds this above others, immensely proud of himself for 'going against the flow' and creating his own unique adventures.
The traveler seeks unique cultures, wants to experience rituals no other has ever experienced in far-off, mystical lands. But when does culture become commodity? When do the norms of a distant culture become theatre? The moment the traveler experiences a strange culture in a strange place solely for his amusement, that culture ceases to exist. It has become an act, a play instead of a ritual. The curiosity that every traveler carries as his most important baggage, destroys that which he restlessly seeks.
I stand motionless, feet shoulder-width apart, just shy of touching the yellow line. Six minutes and thirty-seven seconds have passed since the last train disappeared into oblivion. Another should be approaching soon. It's surprisingly cold this far under the earth's surface; my skin shrinks at the slightest draft. Three young girls giggle on my left. Life continues, unconcerned with my presence. I enjoy watching.
'Royale w/ Cheese'
The Evolution of a Dream
'Freewill'
The Super Bowl and Tiger Woods
New Photos
Getting High with Leprecauns
Today I had, without a doubt, the worst shower of my life. You know
how you feel after a long day of skiing; you're soaking wet and
freezing cold, a cold that will not go away without a hot shower. Well
that was me today, and after my long-anticipated shower, I'm still
freezing cold. This despite wearing two long underwear shirts
underneath a wool sweater, and long underwear under my jeans.
Barring a cataclysmic seismic event on the island of Ireland, nobody
will ever stand on a spot higher than Michael and I have. That spot
was Mt. Carrauntoohill, which menacingly juts skyward, rising 2500
vertical feet (to a summit at 3500 feet) from it's base, and looks
more like a peak you'd see in Switzerland than Ireland. The snow began
about halfway up the mountain, and the surrounding slopes, green as
green can be, were engulfed in snow at their peaks. And we stood on
the highest one.
Since coming to Ireland, Michael and I have been craving some
adventure. We'd stopped at each castle we'd seen along the road and
traveled to the brink of the Atlantic to see Europe's oldest
lighthouse. At Hook Light, we braved the wind and rain, and watched an
offshore gale send 15-foot breakers smashing into the rocky shoreline,
their spray lifting skyward nearly as high as the lighthouse itself.
We drove onward from Wexford, where we'd spent the first night on the
Emerald Isle, with no destination in mind, just enjoying the scenery.
We stopped again along towering cliffs guarding Ireland's southern
coast, and couldn't stop telling each other we were actually in
Ireland. It was everything we'd expected and then some.
Around 7pm last night we rolled into Killarney, which looked like a
nice spot in Lonely Planet. There is an enormous national park on the
town's doorstep, and we wanted to explore. After wandering through
town and stumbling into Neptune's Hostel, we headed for a pub. Three
Irishmen with fiddles and a concertina played sea chanties and Bob
Dylan while we enjoyed the best-tasting Guiness in the world. It was
during then that we decided to attempt climbing Ireland's highest
mountain, and by the second beer we reckoned it'd be easy.
Upon returning to the hostel and telling the receptionist of our
plans, our expectations were immediately brought back to earth. She
warned us of the snow in the mountains, the relentless wind that
scours the summit, the plummeting temperatures and the fickle weather…
and this was in the summer. She suggested we instead rent some bikes
and go explore the more accessible parts of the park, which included a
large lake where stood a 15th century castle. It sounded nice, but we
had already decided we had to at least attempt the mountain, and turn
back if it got ugly.
The alarm went off this morning at 7am, and we'd purposefully parked
the car in a lot where it needed to be removed by 8am, to motivate us
into action. I ate two enormous bowls of Irish Muesli to top up my
energy stores, and we geared up as if to go skiing, and set off for
the base of the mountain. After driving maybe 15 minutes, we caught
our first glimpse of the dazzling peak, and exchanged nervous laughs
and asked ourselves what the hell we were getting into. I cannot
emphasize how large and intimidating the mountains look here. The
highest peak rises to only 3500 feet, but the fact that they rise from
sea level, and are strewn with sheer cliffs, jagged peaks and
unfathomably steep slopes makes them appear downright terrifying to
anyone with the idea of climbing one.
We arrived at a small farm at the end of a stunning one-lane road. The
road followed a series of switchbacks as it descended into a large
valley filled with grazing sheep. At the tiny car park, there was a
donation mailbox to leave your 2 Euro for use of the lot. In the
summertime there is a small hut with fireplace and hot showers, but it
is inexplicably closed in the winter, when, ostensibly, one might need
it the most.
Climbing the mountain involved far more than just scampering up it's
steep slopes. We first had to navigate a 4 mile valley, slowly rising
from the car park, vaguely following a cascading river that brought
snow runoff down from the hills. Aside from my inadequate footwear (I
was only wearing running shoes), we were dressed for the occasion, I
in my ski pants and puffy coat, Michael in a similar getup of
waterproof fabric. We decided to hike up into the valley to the base
of the mountain, assess the weather and the conditions and make a
decision from there as to whether we'd actually go higher.
The walking was arduous, steadily increasing in elevation. We followed
the riverbed, which cut a deep swath through the surrounding green
fields. We had to stay up on the steep slopes of the bank, as far
above in the fields, the grass was more like a swamp, and the only dry
footing was hopping along the rocks along the river. Two or three
times we had to ford the river, skipping from one side to the other
while trying to keep our feet dry. This was no small task, as the
river was 15 feet wide at it's narrowest, and moving at a decent clip,
with rapids and several small waterfalls. We pushed on however, the
mountain looming ever closer, drifting in and out of the low clouds.
Only once were we able to catch a brief glimpse of the impossibly high
summit.
The hike through the valley continued ascending until we were in the
mountain's shadow; here we were greeted with the most stunning scenery
yet. Not a sole was in sight, the only sounds the rushing water and
the howling wind, as it tumbled down the steep slopes of the
surrounding peaks, seemingly trying to halt our progress. The valley
was surrounded on three sides by towering peaks, and we had the
feeling an ant might have if walking between the fingers of some ones
outstretched hand. At the terminus of the valley were two lakes formed
by the runoff of the neighboring peaks, which spilled into the river
below. This was an unexpected surprise, and we stopped here to take a
rest and some photos before pushing up the most difficult portion of
the hike. We'd been walking for 2 hours.
Two peaks, one to our right and one to our left dominated our
immediate frame of view. Between them ran what's called a 'saddle',
connecting the peaks in a concave arch of exposed rock and snow. To
reach the low point of the saddle, we were faced with the difficult
task of ascending the 'Devil's Ladder' a chute right up the middle,
1000-foot cliffs boxing us in on either side. This would have been
difficult in dry conditions, but because of the snow up at higher
elevations, there was quite a bit of runoff, which cascaded down the
Ladder, making the climb slippery and cold.
Most of the climbing on the Ladder was zig-zagging between the cliffs,
looking for rocks to hop onto to increase our elevation. The ground
was unstable, with loose boulders at every turn, and we took extra
care not to knock one of them on the person following. Several times
we had to boost each other up to a higher rock, but we continued on,
rather swiftly, and the going was tiring, but not extremely difficult.
But every time we turned around we were granted a fantastic view of
the valley we'd just traversed, and also reminded of how steep this
slope was – and that we'd have to walk down eventually.
At this point we were in uncharted territory. We half expected that
we'd turn around at the base of the Ladder, but the weather was
holding, we'd only gotten a few drops of rain on us, and by now we
were pumped to at least get to 'Christ's Saddle', and re-evaluate
there. After all, it was enormous fun, and serious adventure, and we
were in our element.
With about 50 feet to go on the Ladder, we hit the snow line. It was
already mostly melted, but made the going a bit slower – the rocks
we'd been using as footsteps were now hidden under a melting layer of
snow, and it was getting steeper. The final pitch was almost straight
up, and we reverted to climbing up on our hands and knees, digging
into the snow for traction. I reached the Saddle first, and was
greeted by a phenomenal view of the opposite valley, lakes and rivers
bisecting the green fields below. To my right was the summit of Mt.
Carrauntoohill, our mountain. The neighboring peaks made up the
MacGillycuddy's Reeks, the highest range in Ireland. They were much
closer and much scarier at our new vantage point. We now stood at 2400
feet; we knew this thanks to Michael's GPS…we'd been setting waypoints
every half hour in case the weather turned and we lost visibility on
the way down.
I was dead-set on making the summit by now. I never imagined even
getting to the Saddle, and was now inspired to keep going. We rested
for about 15 minutes, but soon my feet began to get chilly – they were
soaked by now, and the temperature had dropped to below freezing –
there was about a foot or two of snow drifting in the 30+ knot winds.
We needed to keep moving.
I led the way, and the going was much easier on the ridge that led to
the summit. I was suddenly living every adventure story I've ever read
about climbing a mountain, and could hardly contain my enthusiasm.
Michael was dragging a bit, so I carried the backpack for the final
push. The snow got firmer the higher we climbed, and the slope
gradually became steeper and rockier – and it got progressively
windier. The strongest gusts were in the range of 30-40 knots, which
was disconcerting, but for the time being the peak was in the sun.
Clouds were building to the south however, and I urged Michael to pick
up the pace if we were going to make the summit in sunlight. I did not
want to get up there and be stuck in a cloud…we had already had more
than enough adventure to worry about finding our way down.
I was 50 feet higher than Michael when the summit came into view.
There is a large steel cross marking the summit, and seeing it for the
first time energized me. I nearly ran on my hands and knees for the
final 100 feet or so. Then I crested the last ridge and stood up.
Words cannot describe the feeling I had at that moment. I experienced
a surge of adrenaline, was overwhelmed by the 360 degree view, was
scared by the sheer drop of the cliffs on the north face of the
mountain, and was overcome with an enormous sense of accomplishment.
I'd just done something I'd always dreamed of, and felt an enormous
sense of pride. But at that moment I also confirmed to myself that I
can do absolutely anything. Suddenly I decided I'd climb more
mountains, I'd sail around the world, I'd complete that full Ironman.
I discovered again that I have it within myself to do anything that I
set my mind on doing.
When Michael crested the final ridge we high-fived each other,
embraced, and soaked it all in. We took photos of each other and of
the surroundings. You could actually see the ocean from our vantage
point, and we couldn't believe we'd made it all the way to the top,
two wanna-be adventurers probably in way over our heads. But we made
it, and we savored every second on that peak. Strangely the wind
actually died down, and we experienced a serene peace, standing on our
spot, the highest in all of Ireland, 3500 feet straight down into the
ocean.
…
The entire way up, we kept saying to ourselves that the hard part was
going to be coming down. We stayed in the snow drifts on the descent
from the summit along Christ's Saddle. Here the footing was much more
secure, and we traversed from one side of the ridge to the other,
following the snow. We made remarkable time, and arrived back at the
top of Devil's Ladder by 1pm, the original time we said we'd turn
around, no matter what. We were a bit concerned about descending the
Ladder, especially the snow-covered steep section near the top.
Michael went first, sliding on his ass most of the way, and I followed
close behind, scurrying crab-like on hands and knees. The volume of
runoff had increased dramatically, and the climb down was much
slippery and wetter than the climb up. It didn't much matter, because
it had also started raining, and we were completely soaked.
Our legs were quite thankful when we emerged back onto relatively flat
ground. Now all that lay between us and the warm car was 4 miles of
hiking through the river valley. This time we headed for the left side
of the river, and followed its banks, again hopping from rock to rock.
Getting our feet wet was less of a concern however, which made the
route-finding a bit easier. Fording the river was now only a matter of
walking through a shallow bit. The sheep looked at us funny, and we
steered clear of the horned ones. This is after all their territory,
and we thanked them for letting us use their mountain as we passed by.
After 6 hours of near constant walking and climbing, we finally
crossed back into the car park, in the pouring rain, soaked and
delirious with satisfaction. As it turns out, we timed the weather
absolutely perfectly. When we were on the summit you could see dark
clouds rolling in from the south, so we didn't dawdle and headed down
with haste. It paid off, because soon after leaving the Ladder behind
us, it began raining in earnest, and continued the length of the
valley. The mountain was now cloaked in rain and fog, and when we
turned around for one last glimpse, it was gone.
Which leads me to my horrifying shower. We finally returned to the
hostel and proudly announced our success to the same receptionist who
tried to steer us towards the bike-rental. She happily rented us
another room, and even offered to do our laundry for a discounted
rate. When I finally stepped into the shower, the only hot water was
literally a trickle, barely enough to get the soap out of my hair. I
stood there, freezing, trying to get warm, unsuccessfully. Now I sit
in the café of the hostel, having drunk my second cup of tea in an
effort to bring my core temperature back up, to no avail.
The sense of accomplishment I'm feeling right now I have never
experienced. I think it's a combination of doing something totally on
a whim, with little preparation, something we probably had no business
getting ourselves into, and the ecstasy that nature provided our
senses at the summit. The photos I got are amazing, but they of course
do little justice to the serenity and the peace we felt standing on
that mountain. I'm physically drained, but mentally bursting with
energy and enthusiasm. Suddenly all bets are off. I've opened up an
entire new part of myself and the boundaries within have become
limitless. I have stoked a long-smoldering fire within myself, and it
won't easily be extinguished.