Passage Logs
Andy Schell
ICEBEAR Offshore // "Iceberg, right ahead!"

Seeing the ice in clear skies was a hell of a reward for the heavy weather yesterday. Thus far we’ve stopped to admire two big bergs from close range, bringing in ICEBEAR under power (the wind, after all that fuss, shut down completely around 1200 noon as we rounded Cape Race) to within a hundred yards or so. I put the drone up to get a bird’s eye view, and the crew stopped to admire the beauty of nature’s most striking sculpture. Both bergs we stopped for had at some point in their decay rolled, for the tops of them were pure white and smooth as marble, highlighted in spots by deep turquoise cracks where they’d broken apart and re-frozen during their lifespan.

ICEBEAR Offshore // "Iceberg, right ahead!"
Andy Schell
Video of Wilson the Minke Whale

This has been all over my Facebook page the past couple of days, thanks to Kevin King, who crewed with us and took the footage. When the whale first approached, we were in awe, and just enjoyed his company. Kevin wanted to film right away, but I kind of discouraged him - if you're always behind the camera, you can't appreciate what's right in front of you. But the whale kept coming back! I was afraid jamming the camera down in the water might scare him off (he thinking it might be a harpoon!), but eventually we gave it a go. I think it was worth it! 

Video of Wilson the Minke Whale
Andy Schell
One Day in St. Croix

This was written yesterday, posted today (Monday). Photos below.

We arrived into St. Croix yesterday afternoon after what I think was probably the easiest passage I’ve ever done. We sailed on starboard tack the whole way, broad reaching in anywhere from 8-25 knots, and only motoring for one hour, through a pretty calm spot when the sails were banging around and we had to roll up the jib.

One Day in St. Croix
Andy Schell
USCG Issues Marine Alert in Wake of Salty Dawg ...

I will have WAY more to say about this in due time, but wanted to post it immediately. Thanks to Dave for sharing - you know who you are. Might we have finally reached a tipping point when it comes to taking offshore sailing seriously, instead of a ride to warmer weather?

USCG Issues Marine Alert in Wake of Salty Dawg Rally rescues
Andy Schell
Simplicity v. Technology on the Ocean Sailing ...

I just had an interesting email exchange with a friend whose in the (years-long) process of outfitting his boat for extended ocean cruising. The boat is similar to Arcturus, and we have similar ideas about things, and somehow got in touch a few years back. Anyway, we've had several of these types of exchanges. I won't say who it is out of respect for his privacy, but I want to publish my response to his latest email about rigging, sails and engines. I'll preface each section with what I'm about to discuss, but won't include anything specific that he's emailed me. What's your take?

Simplicity v. Technology on the Ocean Sailing Boat

Passage Logs

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My First Passage Aboard ISBJORN! Ben's Blog P.3

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My First Passage Aboard ISBJORN! Ben's Blog P.3

Sunday, November 10th

I got off the 0400-0800 watch about an hour ago. Getting occasional nausea from the rolling and pitching of this smaller boat, but I guess that's something I'm going to have to get used to! We entered the Gulf Stream just north of the Carolinas this morning. Everything looks and feels the same, except now we have no wind. August made the call to fire up the engine. A low rumble accompanied by a high metallic pitch is settling like a white noise blanket throughout the boat. The noise is tiring, but going less than 5kn is even worse.

I cooked a bean chili last night that was received quite well, and I was happy to be able to make what felt like my first real contribution as second mate.

Final thoughts - I woke up today feeling slightly groggy, worried I'm getting a little cold. Also, I can't poop!

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 7: Azores to Scotland

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 7: Azores to Scotland

'The downwind run from the Azores to Scotland'. Not at all as we expected, this trip has been the one that we thought we would encounter the most weather of the year and we had prepared their crew for it. In Ponta Delgada the day before departure the long-term weather forecast looked to good to be true. We started of with an evening and night of motoring but pretty quickly the wind picked up from behind and we sailed downwind most of the way. Due to some light wind and that we were head of schedule we decided on a quick stop in the Aren Islands just of Galway Bay in Ireland.

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 6: Bermuda - Azores // TRANS-ATLANTIC

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 5 BVI - Bermuda // CELESTIAL NAVIGATION

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 5 BVI - Bermuda // CELESTIAL NAVIGATION

The start of a bigger adventure! Many times this year, we have started our trip in the BVI but every time we have come back after exploring the southern parts of the Caribbean. This time we left the BVI knowing we won't be back from may years! Back in the Caribbean on 2019, but maybe not the BVI, a bit hard to wrap our heads around since this been our 'base' for a while!

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 4 BVI - Grenadines - BVI

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PHOTOS: '17 Leg 4 BVI - Grenadines - BVI

The last Caribbean trip for a while and it is a bit bittersweet! Crew joined us up in Trellis Bay, BVI and the plan to stay there for the night changed quickly. The wind swung us around a bit too close to a nearby boat and since we had to re-anchor anyway, we decided to head over to Spanish Town straight away where we had to clear out of custom before departing the BVI.

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Changing Winds Aboard Isbjorn!

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Changing Winds Aboard Isbjorn!

It's been a loud night onboard Isbjorn, literally! Yesterday afternoon the wind got lighter and lighter but enough wind to keep sailing. As it got even lighter the only course we could hold and also keep the sails full was around 220T - we tried for about an hour. Sailing in the wrong direction is at least better than motoring.

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Our morning aboard Isbjorn began with this message from Rally Control.

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Our morning aboard Isbjorn began with this message from Rally Control.

It's very strange in our little isolated bubble on Isbjorn to be getting news in chunks from afar, and I'm sure the fleet feels the same. Interestingly, last year while the yachts were at sea, the Paris terrorist attacks happened. Makes you realize how connected you are ashore, and how nice - but weird - it is to be so disconnected.

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"Hey! It's been super windy with big seas! The real deal!"

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"Hey! It's been super windy with big seas! The real deal!"

This blog has nothing to do with politics. We're just all curious on the big day today!

0545. I'm taking my first solo watch of the trip. Typically I don't stand watches - rather, our crew pair up, Mia takes a solo watch & I'm on-call, the crew doing three-on, six-off rotations. Tom, though, is majorly seasick and hasn't taken a watch since Day 1. For a while Ed & David and Mia & Bruce did 4-on, 4-off, but it's finally calmed down a bit so they're getting a needed break.

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Isbjorn Offshore: It's tough out here!

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Isbjorn Offshore: It's tough out here!

Don't let anybody tell you ocean sailing is easy. Of all the endurance sports I've dabbled in over the years - marathon running, triathlon, cross-country skiing, cycling - offshore sailing is easily the most grueling. In those other sports, no matter how knackered you are in the moment, you know you'll be in your bed that night.

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Isbjorn Offshore: Weather from WRI, going direct to Annapolis!

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Isbjorn Offshore: Weather from WRI, going direct to Annapolis!

Since I emailed in this morning, we've received the WX update I was looking for from WRI, and it basically confirmed my analysis of the GRIB forecast I got earlier. They sent a fantastically detailed outlook, which I won't include here, but their conclusion was basically what I'd hoped for earlier.

Isbjorn Offshore: Sneaking behind the cold front

Isbjorn Offshore: Sneaking behind the cold front

'Variable' is the word for the weather on this passage north from Florida to Annapolis. Since departing Friday morning, we've had it all - light downwind sailing, light close reaching, heavy downwind sailing and currently even heavier close reaching, which later today is going to become a dead beat to windward.

Isbjorn update - on the way back to BVI

Isbjorn update - on the way back to BVI

Another update from Andy. He is sending me short and sweet texts from our YB tracker we have onboard. 

Anyway, Isbjorn is heading back to BVI after yesterday's jib jam. Andy has a feeling it may be more than just a jam and we have learned to follow our feeling and always put boat safety first. 

The update from Andy today, including a few comments from the crew: