Seeing the ice in clear skies was a hell of a reward for the heavy weather yesterday. Thus far we’ve stopped to admire two big bergs from close range, bringing in ICEBEAR under power (the wind, after all that fuss, shut down completely around 1200 noon as we rounded Cape Race) to within a hundred yards or so. I put the drone up to get a bird’s eye view, and the crew stopped to admire the beauty of nature’s most striking sculpture. Both bergs we stopped for had at some point in their decay rolled, for the tops of them were pure white and smooth as marble, highlighted in spots by deep turquoise cracks where they’d broken apart and re-frozen during their lifespan.
This has been all over my Facebook page the past couple of days, thanks to Kevin King, who crewed with us and took the footage. When the whale first approached, we were in awe, and just enjoyed his company. Kevin wanted to film right away, but I kind of discouraged him - if you're always behind the camera, you can't appreciate what's right in front of you. But the whale kept coming back! I was afraid jamming the camera down in the water might scare him off (he thinking it might be a harpoon!), but eventually we gave it a go. I think it was worth it!
This was written yesterday, posted today (Monday). Photos below.
We arrived into St. Croix yesterday afternoon after what I think was probably the easiest passage I’ve ever done. We sailed on starboard tack the whole way, broad reaching in anywhere from 8-25 knots, and only motoring for one hour, through a pretty calm spot when the sails were banging around and we had to roll up the jib.
I will have WAY more to say about this in due time, but wanted to post it immediately. Thanks to Dave for sharing - you know who you are. Might we have finally reached a tipping point when it comes to taking offshore sailing seriously, instead of a ride to warmer weather?
I just had an interesting email exchange with a friend whose in the (years-long) process of outfitting his boat for extended ocean cruising. The boat is similar to Arcturus, and we have similar ideas about things, and somehow got in touch a few years back. Anyway, we've had several of these types of exchanges. I won't say who it is out of respect for his privacy, but I want to publish my response to his latest email about rigging, sails and engines. I'll preface each section with what I'm about to discuss, but won't include anything specific that he's emailed me. What's your take?
Season 4 of Sailing Stories features Into the Raging Sea, the gripping and tragic story of “Thirty-three mariners, one megastorm, and the sinking of EL FARO,” written by Rachel Slade.
The season will release Thursday December 5, with the first three episodes dropping at once, and will continue weekly through the end of January. But you have to follow in real-time! Each episode will ‘disappear’ from the podcast feed ONE WEEK after it’s release.
I wonder when they’re going to have to change the height restrictions on the ICW? Sea level rise is absolutely a real thing, and we didn’t see a single bridge that actually showed the full, advertised 65’ of vertical clearance since leaving Norfolk. Part of it was due to the Super Moon, but most of the locals we spoke to in Melbourne said it’s been high all year, and I read reports on Active Captain as old as 2011 that stated that the Wabasso Bridge was showing low clearances back then.
Well ... the clean-up is immense, a belief shared by many BVI-islanders. There are very few easy solutions to rectify the entanglement of owners, insurers, businesses, and other vested interests. Everyone is trying to do the right thing, but the negotiations are not clear-cut, and it's just about the most complex thing I've ever witnessed ... -Paul Exner, October 16, 2017.
Today is kind of a big day in my life as a ‘sailor’, although I am very far away from the sailing scene at the moment. Ten years ago, I spent some time in New Zealand with my best friend Johanna, driving our new to us backpacker car – a Nissan Bluebird – exploring the beauty of New Zealand, camping, hiking, meeting lots of fun people and truly having the time of our life.
Matt Rutherford's first post of their latest Ocean Research Project voyage to Greenland. Matt and Nicole departed Annapolis last week, and are en route. We'll be posting their blog entries here on 59º North for your adventure reading pleasure. Check out Matt's site at oceanresearchproject.org.
Imagine tossing a chicken carcass into a cage of hungry wolves, I think that’s a good idea of what feeding time looks like on a lot of offshore racers and delivery boats. As cook, on a sea going racer, you need not worry about comparisons to the finer restaurants in town. The ingredients for success are simple; two large deep pots, garlic and onions, a little planning, and variety, and watch your fingers at feeding time.
Yesterday, before the guys got here, my dad and I took the ferry over to Hope Town. It's known for the old 1800's lighthouse with red and white stripes, that still burns a kerosine light to this day. Retired Senator Tom Harkin of Iowa lives there when he's not in DC. Tom sailed with me on both legs of the Serenity passage from BVI-Tortola and back in February, and I've gotten to become pretty good friends with him.
Rudolphe Dutel recounts his first Atlantic crossing sailing the classic trade wind route with the ARC rally last November - complete with great photos and cool GIFs. After finishing the Paris Marathon in 2009, sailing redefined his take on 'long-term' projects. "You live around sailing," he writes, "instead of running around your routine. Both are extremely rewarding and quite humbling."
Paul Exner returns with another intimate and thoughtful story written in his unique stream-of-consciousness style. It's Part 2 of his adventures with a cranky diesel engine and boisterous Caribbean conditions on a recent Modern Geographic Expedition. If you missed Part 1, click here.
Paul Exner of Modern Geographic Expeditions makes his 59º North debut and gives an intimate and realistic look at what it's like dealing with a diesel engine repair in the West Indies. Exner's style is thoughtful and reflective, and gives a rare glimpse into the mind of an expedition leader on a nervous deadline. Part 1 of 2.
In lieu of my recent arrival to Sweden today (I flew overnight from Newark-Oslo-Stockholm, and am going on one hour of sleep and four cups of strong Swedish coffee), I wanted to re-post this blog from two years ago when Arcturus made her first arrival in Sweden. It was an emotional moment for Mia and I (especially Mia), and it seems simultaneously like yesterday and ages ago.
Arcturus has spent all of last winter hauled out in Öregrund - we'll launch her next week, and get back to living aboard for the remainder of the summer here in Scandinavia. No plans yet on where we're headed, but stay tuned. I'll be writing about it. In the meantime, enjoy this revisited post...
